Thank you jairbj!! Problem now solved!! 8) 8)
I took off the rear adapter and connected AC voltage lines directly, and guess what...the power supply did NOT turn on, which is exactly the same situation as you reported. Logically, I started thinking the adapter must have some design error that is somehow causing the unexpected POWER ON behavior, and my testing described below confirmed this was, in fact, the case
...the adapter has a critical design flaw! At least is does for the version of my power supply...RG2
I looked closely at +48v and -48v PCB traces on RG2, and I noticed the PCB design has changed (over time) compared to photos from other users that have previously been uploaded to this thread. Apparently, HUAWEI has changed the traces in the PCB from previous versions, but unfortunately the adapter that I purchased was not matched and suitable to the revised traces on the PCB.
I was able to find a simple workaround so I can still use the adapter, but also re-enable the START PIN function. I applied a KAPTON tape on BOTH SIDES of PCB traces on the power supply, actually on the top of the -48v traces.
After tape was applied, I reconnected the adapter to the power supply, and when I apply AC voltage the adapter works correctly. :thumb: To turn on the power supply is now very simple: GROUND only 1 of the 2 wires from the JST connector (the black wire). Note: Grounding the other JST wire (white wire) has no effect, so I leave it floating. The photo below will hopefully help others who have found this same problem.
Thank you again jairbj for your help and ideas, PROBLEM IS NOW SOLVED!! 8) 8)
jairbj said:
@OhmSchool
That's great I could help you.
Now I have a question for you? Are you wiring your PSU to 120vac or 220vac?
If possible, could you confirm that in 120vac it makes much more noise than in 220vac?
Yes thank you again jairbj for helping me find the solution!
To answer your question about noise:
I typically use 230-240vac. However because of your question, I conducted a special test to check the noise of my PSU at 120vac (25 amp DC load) and 240vac (25 amp DC load). I did not notice any difference in the usual noise, in fact it is very difficult to hear any noise from the Huawei.
By the way, I replaced the OEM 18,000 RPM PWM DC fan because it was giving off a very painful 60 dBA noise. I replaced the OEM fan with a SanAce 120mm PWM DC fan that only produces 45 dBA which is a very quiet wisper of sound (at least for my ears). For this sound test, I disconnected the DC FAN temporarily so I could listen to PSU very closely under both 120vac and 230/240vac conditions.
So for my Huawei, no difference in noise between 120vac or 240vac.
I have experienced lots of trouble with noise from other PSU's (other than Huawei). For example, I have a Meanwell RSP--48v. When I first purchased this PSU 6 years ago, it was very quiet with no problems. However over the years, the capacitors, inductors and coils have "relaxed" due to normal heating/stress of usage. In the last year or so, the Meanwell suddenly began giving off a very annoying high frequency piezoelectric noise, probably in 8 to 10khz audible range.
I was able to reduce most of the piezoelectric noise by applying damping glue (epoxy) to the surface of all inductors I could easily reach. I also did the same for the coils/transformers. The epoxy helped reduce the noise to something tolerable.
To diagnose and find the piezoelectric noise sources in the Meanwell, I simply touched the surface of inductors and coils with nylon tweezers to apply small physical force which immediately dampens the piezoelectric noise. Of course be very careful if you do this yourself, voltages in these PSU may seem small...however they can be very dangerous and PSU must be operating at high DC load to generate the piezoelectric noise.
Hopefully this helps you with your situation.
I been using a chargery w 24s charger with a jikong active bms 24s 300amp and had good results only issue i had was the crappy wire placement out the case on the charger swapped that to anderson powerpole fitted to the case.
For me i don't want to go over w max from the grid so i can still charge in asmany places as possible its no good been able to pull w but the charger is to big to transport and even if it could its possible that it could overheat someone's electrics if its not a ring circuit, 240v 16amp for a kettle and 2-3mins can warm a cable, do that for hours at a time and it may cook some poor sods radial circuit that bob sparks and jack the lad signed off with hand on heart shes a gooden.
BotoXbz said:
usertogo said:
BotoXbz said:
A little update on my PSU hacking attempts:
I love it, But I wonder does bluetooth penetrate the case when its closed, or are you not planning to close it?
BotoXbz said:
Work in progress still, code on GitHub https://github.com/BotoX/huawei-r48xx-esp32
Using this lib for CAN on ESP32 https://github.com/sandeepmistry/arduino-CAN
I am taking a look at the sources, and appreciate the wonderful programming style!
Let me think, since this is CAN bus the controller really wouldn't have to be in the PSU, but could be - maybe sporting an OLED status display and even a rotary click switch for direct menu control be somewhere in the vehicle cockpit? Or even become part of code in any other MCU connected to that CAN bus? Do you require (other than the supply voltage) access to other signals in the Huawei rectifier?
I've put the ESP32 inside of the Huawei so it's self-contained and powered by the PSU.
The WiFi and Bluetooth work with random reliability, sometimes they both excellent.
Sometimes WiFi doesn't work at all but Bluetooth works fine.
And sometimes you have to get really close and wait a little longer for only Bluetooth to work.
You can put OLEDs and switches and whatnot, but I'm lazy and don't have to adjust it often, so bluetooth is fine.
And WiFi comes for free too so I can watch my battery charging on my pc with telnet lol.
The CAN pins are exposed outside too, see the other posts/images in this thread.
You can put multiple PSUs on the same CAN bus too and control them individually (with changes to the code).
You don't need anything else other than CAN bus.
However I was hoping that I could put the PSU into sleep mode and keep it plugged in at all times by turning off the output with that one wire. Turns out it uses way too much power in idle by doing that, real sleep mode is probably triggered with a CAN command that I don't know.
Here's some more code for the huawei psu communication: https://github.com/huyugit/om-miner/tree/master/sm-miner-slave/src/psu
This guy seems to be controlling multiple ones on the same bus.
What changes need to be made to the code to control 2 r modules in parallel?
Hi Experts, what is the use of Rectifier module?
How many we need to have on site?
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Example: ZTE rectifier module, Huawei rectifier module.
Can we run site without rectifier module? If yes, How?
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Kindly answer this please.
Or you have link to these special questions
Normally Telecom equipments require DC supply of -48 V. That’s what rectifier do conversion of AC to DC supply.
Rectifier modules come with different current rating 25, 50, 80, 100 A and so on.
Your requirement depends on site load.
Normally for a BTS site with 400 AH battery set with site laod of 50 A and 40 A for battery charge, 100 A capacity will do.
Hope it helps.
If you are looking for more details, kindly visit Baseband Unit.