Pin Gage Set & Rust Prevention? | The Hobby-Machinist

Guys I pick up a Pin Gage set M2 - other day which few had little surface rust on them which I cleaned up best I could.Well having a set from .251-.500 there were a few to be cleaned and all was spray with some rust prevention.These have been stored in it original container but they still had some rust on them.What I was wondering guys is things such as pin gages,block gages,squares or anything that you want to stay rust free what do you do?Lets say these pin gages,my first thought is keep them lube up with something then is there something that can lay over the top of them that been soak this a lube spray say T9?What I did till I hear back from you guys,is I use a product here in pick,spray a rag then wipe them down.But I want to lay over the top a piece of brown paper sack over the top and soak it with the same spray.Since pin gages in hobby shop does not get used that much I just want a good plan for storing them and not open the box up find they are all rusty.What is ya'll plan How about VCI (anti-corrosion) paper. I save them anytime tools, etc, that I purchase comes with them. I keep a sheet inside my gauge block set. Not sure how good they work, I don't have any rust but then again where I live we don't have humidity issues.




In my drawers I have desiccant. I have the ones in metal cases that are "renewable", just bake them when they get full with moisture then reuse. I also save the disposable pouches of dessicant that come with things also but just the bigger pouches, I don't bother with the small ones. You can buy just the dessicant & use your own containers but the VCI paper would make more sense to keep inside the pin guage case.

Put a sheet of VPI or VCI paper (Vapor Phase Inhibitor, or Volatile Corrosion Inhibitor) in the box with your pins. Interestingly, it works better with bare steel than with oiled or otherwise protected steel.

Vpi VCI Paper for sale | eBay

Get the best deals for Vpi VCI Paper at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items! Go to the manufacturer's site to see what each type is best used for BEFORE making a purchase. Get the right ones for YOUR shop climate and YOUR metals. The stuff works great, just keep air from moving in and out of the container. It does, however, work pretty well with just a sheet laid over the tools in your tool boxes. It is very easy to use, no oily parts, and it lasts for a decently long time. Just make sure you use the correct stuff for what you are trying to protect. VPI and VCI chemicals are also sold as a powder product, often seen in little porous bags that come with parts or tools. They work best without oil or other rust inhibitors also being around.

Edit: Will beat me to it...

Second edit: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l&_nkw=vpi+vci+paper&_sacat=0

I'm new to using a marking gauge and have a couple of questions about set up that I'm hoping somebody here can set me straight on. I've read in a couple of places that I should reshape the marking pin from its out of the box round tapered shape to a half round tapered shape. Reason being it gives a cleaner cut and wanders less. Sounds reasonable. Here are my questions:
1. Seems to me the half round side should be the side closer to the fence. Correct?
2. How does one reshape the pin? I tried with a file, and it didn't seem to work well. I stopped before I filed into the wood beam. It'd be easier to file it if I could remove it from the beam, but it doesn't look like it comes out easily. It's not held in be a wedge or anything simply elegant. If I do get it out, I'll need a a jig to hold it, which defeats the purpose of removing it in the first place.
3. Assuming I can reshape it, do I need to sharpen it like I'd sharpen a chisel or plane iron?

I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.

Ken Marion

Ken,
A small file does this work. Be sure it is sharp. The only one I had trouble on was an old Disston, where the metal was too hard to file. I did it with a small diamond type file, on a plastic handle, that I picked up form a sale basket some time ago. As to the round side towads the fence, that is a yes. That way the guage is pulled into the edge of the wood, and it stays tight. But, on a moritse guage, where there are two pins, keep the rounds to the inside so that the outer part of the two lines/grooves are as clean as possible. AS to removing the pin, grip it hard with pliers and turn it out, like a screw, although it is not threaded. It is just a pressure fit, in my experience.

Some take the wood beam and cut or file out a groove for better visibility of the cut, right at the point where the pin is. Wood marking guages are not my favorite. I prefer a patternmakers guage, which is all metal, but does onjt have the round cutter, but rather a square one, which has 4 corners, each of which can be sharpened. I like a point better than a circle as it lets you come to a precise point, and then stop, so you do not have marks that are unwanted.
Alan