Intermediate switch lighting circuits. In this video we’re going to be looking 4 different ways to control a light using 3 separate switches and then also two ways to control a light using 4, or more switches. This is useful for example to control the lights on stairs to different floors or perhaps from either side of the bed and at the bedroom door, like you might find in a hotel.
Sager contains other products and information you need, so please check it out.
Scroll to the bottom the watch the YouTube video tutorial on intermediate switches
In our last tutorial we looked at how to control a light with just two switches. Do check that out if you haven’t already, click here to see.
Electricity is dangerous and can be fatal, you should be qualified and competent to carrying out any electrical work. Never work on live/hot electrical circuits.
This system is called by a different name depending on where you live. In north America this is called a 4 way switched circuit and in the EU and other parts of the world this is called an intermediate switch circuit. We’re going to focus on the EU/UK method and colour coding.
To make this circuit work we require two different types of switches. A two way switch and an intermediate switch. Again, the names of the type of switches depends where in the world you live.
The two way and intermediate switch will look the same on the front. However, the two way has 3 terminals on the back. The switch can be flipped only two ways, up or down, but the electricity can flow through the switch in 4 different ways, depending on how it’s connected into the circuit.
The intermediate switch can also only be flipped two ways, up or down, but on the back we find 4 terminals. The electricity can flow through this in 14 different ways, depending on how it’s wired.
This switch has a mechanical component inside which means that when the switch is flipped, it crosses its’s arms to change the direction. These two arms DO NOT TOUCH they are kept separated. By crossing it’s arms to change the direction we can therefore make or break a circuit.
The colour of the cables varies around the world. In this video I’m using the European colour code but you should check your local regulations.
The first circuit we will look at is the simplest method and the easiest to understand. It’s typically used for a new installation.
We have our two way switches at either end and then an intermediate switch in the middle. We take our live feed and connect it into the common of switch 1. We then run a brown cable from L1 of switch 1 over to L4 of switch 2. We then run a brown cable from L2 of switch two, over to L2 of switch three.
We then run a blue wire from L2 of switch 1 over to L3 of switch 2, we place a brown sleeve at each end of the wire to warn that it is intermittently live. We run another blue wire from L1 of switch 2 over to L1 of switch 3. And then we run a final blue wire from the common of switch 3 up to the light.
Now, when we turn the power on, the electricity can flow through switch one and two and into switch 3, but the circuit is broken so the light is off. If we then flip switch 3, we complete the circuit and the light turns on. If we flip switch 2 we cross the paths and break the circuit. If we flip switch 1 we make the circuit again. If we flip switch 1 again then we brake the circuit. If we flip switch 3 then we complete the circuit. And if we flip switch 2 then we break the circuit.
This is the second method which is typical for converting an existing circuit.
In this version we run the live to L1 of switch 1, then from, L1 of switch 1 to L1 of switch 2, then from L3 of switch 2 to L1 of switch 3.
We then run a grey wire from L2 of switch 3 to L4 of switch 2, placing a brown sleeve on the wires to indicate that it is intermittently live. We then run another grey wire from L2 of switch 2 to L2 of switch 1.
We then join the two end switches with a black wire to each common. And then connect the blue wire from L2 of switch 1 to the light circuit.
When we turn the power on the electricity passes through switch 1 and 2 and stops at switch 3 because the circuit is broken. If we flip switch 3 we make the circuit and the lamp turns on. If we flip switch 2 then we break the circuit and the lamp is off. If we flip switch 3 we make the circuit again. If we flip switch 1 then we break the circuit so it can’t reach the lamp. We flip switch 2 to make the circuit and we break the circuit by flipping switch 1.
This method is a variation of the last one where we use the same cables but change their route a little. We have the live into L1 of switch 1, then a brown wire from L1 of switch 1 to L3 of switch 2, then another brown wire from L1 of switch 2 to L1 of switch 3.
Then we have the grey wire from L2 of switch 1 to L4 of switch 2 and another from L2 of switch 2 to L2 of switch 2. Then a black wire between the two commons and finally the blue wire back to the lamp circuit.
When we power this circuit, the electricity flows through switch 1 and 2, but stops at switch 3. If we flip switch 3 we make the circuit and the light can turn on. If we flip switch 2 we break the circuit. If we flip switch 1 we make the circuit. If we flip switch 2 we break the circuit. If we flip switch 3 we make the circuit and if we flip switch 1 we break the circuit.
In this design we’re bringing the power and lamp control to the right most switch. We run a brown wire from L1 of switch 3 to L1 of switch 2, then another brown wire from L3 of switch 2 over to L2 of switch 1. Then we run a grey wire from the common of switch 1 over to the common of switch 3. We then run a black wire from L2 of switch 3 to L2 of switch 2, then another black wire from L4 of switch 2 over to L1 of switch 1 and finally we have the blue wire from L2 back to the lamp.
When we power this circuit, the circuit is complete so electricity flows through switch 3, 2, 1 and back to 3 where it then feeds the light. If we then flip switch 3 we break the circuit. If we flip switch 2 we make the circuit again. If we flip switch 1 we break the circuit. If we flip switch 3 we again make the circuit. If we flip switch 2 we break the circuit and if we flip switch 1 we make the circuit.
This method is the simplest way to connect 4, 5, 6 or more switches into a light circuit. It’s based off the design in the very first method we saw earlier in the video. This is typically used for completely new installations. The power comes in from one end and the lamp is connected to the other end. This way allows any switch to make or break the circuit.
Hey!
If you want to learn more, please visit our website Double gang European deisgn lighting switch.
I’m looking for a light switches to my smart home for a while and I can’t find ones that meets my requirements:
Note: I’m looking for Smart Shutter Switches additionally with the same requirements. If you can help with that also I’ll be grateful.
Media: in this Google Photos app because I couldn’t upload more than one link:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LMugY7BL47rEcLtZ9
Hey,
About 5 - I added necessary photos to the album (switches I found that are compatible with the box) (The ones eith no label on the photo).
7. I don’t know but added an example to a switch that work for me in the album (Photo 4)
9. Edited in the post.
12. I added fixed photo with the specific dimentions.
Thank you for helping!
It’s pretty hard to start with recommendations without knowing the current and max load. Those are the basic specifications for any switch.
Most homes in Israel are 220v AC, but not all.
Are all the switches limited to controlling a single light fitting with no more than 3 standard lamps in each fitting? No sun lamps, no motorized devices like fans or heaters, no outlet control, no fluorescent tubes, no photography lights, no outdoor floodlights or other very bright security lights? No microwave ovens or other small appliances? No workshop tools? Just trying to get a sense of max load.
(Also I added Israel to the topic title in the hopes that some other community members living there would have some suggestions.)
The problem would be with the switch, not the wiring. Many home automation devices made for the do it yourself market try to keep costs as low as possible. So some of them are designed only for a couple of standard lamps, they won’t support anything above 10 A, and if you have two channels, that may mean 5 A per channel. it’s enough to safely run a single ceiling fitting with two lamps, but not enough to run a plug-in vacuum cleaner or microwave oven. This is even more true with ones that only have a CE safety rating. so that’s why we have to ask about the planned uses.
Ok, that sounds good.
Here’s the primary issue. The Shape of the typical switchbox in Israel is different than the shape used in either Europe or in North America.
Europe is typically square designed for 220v.
North America is typically a vertical rectangle designed for 110v.
Your switch boxes are a horizontal rectangle designed for 220v. So since it’s a small market, there just aren’t very many devices designed for your specifications.
That’s why if you are willing to use a in wall module it would help a lot. The problem is, those are either single or dual, I don’t know of any triple and there might not be enough room in the switchbox for two modules.
That’s why I’m hoping some of the other community members from Israel will have some suggestions for you.
Oh, and before we go any further, we should confirm what model number is your hub? In particular are you on EU frequency zwave or North America frequency zwave?
We do have some forum members in Israel, and if they’re in this forum they have a smart home, so they could at least share what they’ve done. We’ll see if anybody joins the conversation.
As far as inwall double gang modules I know @Mariano_Colmenarejo has looked at quite a few for Europe. He might have some tips or model suggestions. But again, I don’t know what you’re going to do about triple gang. I don’t think there’s room for two modules in your switch box.
I understand the argument, but it’s a question of what options are available. I do have a friend in Vietnam where they also use the horizontal rectangle light switches, who ended up changing everything out for the square shape. But that required replacing the switchbox, not just the switch, and was a much bigger project.
The only double switches I have are two fibaro fgs-223 and they work fine.
To pair it does not need disassemble anything, with 3 quick presses on the dummy switch it is enough to exclude and include.
What you have to do is approach the hub with an Ethernet cable when they are already installed in the wall.
The zigbee devices are easier to pair, i think
There is a very active israel group in the community, maybe @dotan_shai can help you.
The company is the world’s best power socket rail supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.