Re: How do I determine electric fan CFM needs?
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Re: fourgearsavoy] #2947284
11:46 AM
11:46 AM
Joined:Posts: 220
jbeintherockiesOP
enthusiast
OP
enthusiastJoined:Posts: 220
Originally Posted by fourgearsavoy
You haven't said what water pump drive you are running. Make sure you are spinning the water pump fast enough at least 1 to 1 with the crank. I have a little more engine in my Savoy and I'm running a 26" 3 row rad with an 18" thermo clutch fan. My pulleys are 440 source repo units with a Flow-Kooler high volume pump and my car stays around 180 on a 90 degree day on the highway at 3600 RPM. It does creep up around 190 when sitting at a light but that is not really hot. I haven't put a shroud on it yet but that would probably cure the low speed cooling around town. On the alternator you don't need a 100 amp unit but you could use a basic Toyota internal regulator alternator unit. The bracket kit and plug you can get from AR Engineering and I suggest a Factory Denso unit over a discount rebuilt unit from the zone or one of the other stores. They charge 14.5 volts at 900 RPM and do away with the failure prone firewall mounted regulator.Gus
Interesting you should ask : )I worked on the car over the weekend. Once I had the radiator and fan out, I noticed the crank pulley was very small. I then measured its diameter and compared it to the crank pulley on my brother's 67 GTX. Sure enough, my dad's crank pulley is a 5" underdrive unit. The crank pulley on the GTX is about 6-1/2" in diameter. I read that the 5" crank pulley underdrives the accessories (only WP/fan and alternator on this car) by 30%! That explains why the volts drop when he comes to a light and most likely why he is having so many serious cooling issues.So, I will be buying a repo crank pulley from 440 source. I am also going to buy an overflow/recovery tank and a fan.Speaking of fans, my brother doesn't have a fan to use. So, I was considering either of these:The price of the resto 7 blade is insane. But it might be worth it if it cools (and is balanced) better than the cheap Derale. I will be using a new viscous fan clutch because that is what my dad has available to use.Thoughts?I took the radiator to A1 Radiator in the Denver area to have him pressure test it along with two different caps; it was steaming the last time the car overheated. I think the steam was coming from the top of the core; but I couldn't get a good look of where it may have been coming from because of the shroud. I also was in a hurry when I took the radiator out to get to the shop before he closed on Saturday. So, I didn't have a chance to remove the shroud and do a thorough investigation.I have a good voltage tester with a thermocouple and a laser temp gun. I haven't bought the anemometer yet; they are expensive. Yes the manometer that was suggested ($36 HT-1890 “no name” Chinese unit and it has worked pretty well) is cheap; but I'm not sure I really need it.I've been looking into upgrading the alternator. I am waiting to see if I can get this car cooled with the factory setup before I choose an alternator. The Denso's are cool, but are more money and require a different bracket setup (AR Engineering) and a plug/pigtail (i.e., even more money). The Powermasters (which I have on my car), bolt right in. My Powermaster alternator has been great! I would only buy a new alternator; I wouldn't buy a rebuild from any of the parts stores.
Last edited by jbeintherockies;
06:55 PM
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An Electric Fan can help keep your engine temperature in a safe operating range. It is not only recommended for high-horsepower and boosted engines. In many cases, it is required.
In the aftermarket, there are a ton of options. When shopping for an electric fan, keep these things in mind:
Electric fans are classified by cubic feet per minute (cfm). This is a measure of how much air they can move. Use this table as a starting point:
Engine Size
Minimum Fan CFM
4 cylinder 1,250 cfm 6 cylinder 2,000 cfm Small 8 cylinder (under 302 c.i.d.) 2,500 cfm Large 8 cylinder (302 c.i.d. +) 2,800 cfm +When in doubt, go for higher cfm. More airflow won’t cause an issue. However, not enough could lead to overheating.
Electric fans are listed by diameter. Measure your radiator core (with the shroud removed) to see what will fit. Check out this quick video from Flex-a-Lite:
Get a fan that will cover as much of the core area as possible. Don’t forget to leave about an inch of clearance between the fan and any obstruction:
For most vehicles, a single fan will do the job. However, with power adders or air conditioning, a dual fan can provide the additional airflow required.
A Puller Fan is installed behind the radiator and pulls air through. A Pusher Fan is the opposite. There are also Reversible Fans that can be installed either way.
Puller fans are more efficient. They are recommended as the primary cooling fan. A pusher fan can restrict airflow when the vehicle is moving. They should only be used in the following cases:
This is a question of airflow vs. noise. Straight blades move more air but are louder. Curved blades move less air but are quieter.
If noise is a concern, curved blades can help. However, for maximum cooling, go with straight blades.
Adding an electric fan will put additional strain on your electrical system. Larger fans will draw more amps. (Check the Instructions for your specific fan.) Depending on your application, you may need:
If you want to learn more, please visit our website Commercial Fan Solution.