With fossil fuels becoming increasingly scarce and utility bills becoming exceedingly expensive, more and more people are considering solar energy. Although solar energy systems are a significant investment, you can make your money back quickly by saving on energy bills, applying for tax credits, and selling energy back to the grid. However, it can be confusing when attempting to set up a solar energy system. Inverter.com is here to tell you more about solar inverters and how to choose the right one for your needs.
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Why Are Solar Inverters Important?
The solar power process starts with sunshine. Photovoltaic cells in solar panels harness the energy from the sunlight, creating an electrical charge. The charge produced is a direct current or DC energy. However, DC is not suitable for use in your home. A solar inverter converts (or inverts) the DC energy into alternating current (AC), a form of energy that is safe and useable by your home appliances and electronics.
Aside from converting electricity to a practical form, solar inverters also help to flatten abnormal spikes or dips in your current and protect your sensitive appliances from damage. Solar inverters help to maximize the energy produced by your system by determining the ideal voltage for your modules to function at their best. Inverters that record production and consumption are a great way to monitor your power usage as well.
The Main Types of Solar Inverters
There are several different types of solar inverters. Here are the four main types available on Inverter.com.
On-grid inverters or grid-tied inverters are solar inverters that connect directly to the utility grid. They convert DC into AC directly to allow users to power their appliances. Users can also send surplus energy to the grid.
Off-grid inverters or stand-alone inverters are designed to work with batteries. They are capable of powering residences or commercial projects by converting DC from the solar panels into AC in storage batteries.
Micro inverters are small inverters attached to individual solar panels. Instead of having a central inverter on a solar array, the DC to AC energy conversion occurs at the panel level.
Hybrid inverters or multi-mode inverters combine the features of on-grid and off-grid inverters. They can draw and convert energy from both the solar array and the battery system.
How to Choose the Right Inverter
1. Choose Your System
Do you want the independence of an off-grid system or prefer to have the security of an on-grid system? If the power grid in your area is unreliable, a hybrid inverter may be better suited to your needs. The hybrid inverters available on Inverter.com can automatically switch between off-grid and on-grid modes to achieve the best energy outcomes. If you plan to have several modules that experience different levels of shading, micro inverters may be the best option to maximize power output.
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2. Compare the Efficiencies
Conversion efficiency determines how much current is lost when DC is turned into AC. Small inefficiencies can add up over time to cost you a fair sum in electricity loss. Thus, you should aim for an efficiency of 96% or higher. The maximum efficiency of an inverter could be as high as 98.6% in some on-grid models with MPPT efficiency of up to 99.5%. MPPT stands for maximum power point tracking and it is the process of optimizing the match between system components to maximize energy extraction.
3. Check Key Parameters
Many features determine how well your solar inverter works. Some of these critical parameters are rated output voltage, output power, and overload capacity. The single-phase voltage level for most countries is between 220V and 240V. However, in the US, the standard voltage level is 120V for most everyday electronics and 240V for appliances such as washing machines and ovens. Your output voltage should be in the safe operating range for your electronics.
4. Look for Quality Construction
Since solar inverters are often installed outdoors, invest in models made of quality materials that can withstand the elements. For instance, the micro inverters on Inverter.com are designed to be waterproof. They avoid deterioration by preventing rainwater from pooling on the inverter surface. Your inverter should also feature an efficient cooling system to prevent overheating due to continued operation or strong sunlight. Look for units with a good working temperature and humidity range.
5. Consider Additional Features
Solar inverters can come with additional features or accessories that add value to your solar energy system. For example, certain hybrid inverters have built-in timers that can switch your inverters on during the day and off during the night. Inverters can come with digital LCD panels that display detailed operational information or be fitted with Wi-Fi data collector devices that enable you to monitor and track your energy data.
Most solar inverters have a minimum warranty of 12 months. That said, it is best to do your research to find the right system for your needs before purchasing your inverter. Inverter.com specializes in reliable power inverter products with competitive prices. If you need professional recommendations on how to set up your solar energy system, visit Inverter.com for the latest in solar technology and expert advice.
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I have a small orchard with a 15 HP 3-phase well pump here in California. Power goes pole to meter to service panel, to pump. PG&E tells me it's 4-wire, 3-phase, 240v. I have no yet verified that with my tester.
I’m going to install a small solar system relatively quickly to get grandfathered into NEM 2.0, before new systems lose their ability to earn back anywhere near their cost. Then later on deal with adding capacity.
Anyway, what are my options for 3-phase? I own and am familiar with a standard 240v residential system, but 3-phase is new to me.
My options as I see it are panels with Solar Edge optimizers going to a Solar Edge 3-phase inverter. Or, since it's 240v do I even need to deal with a 3-phase inverter?
Or another brand without the whole optimizer scheme.
What are your thoughts?
Thank you
I've done dozens of small orchards in CA just like yours. When they say it's 4-wire, 3-phase, 240V, you need to verify if the Neutral (N) 4th wire is bonded to ground in a WYE, and not a 120/240/208V Stinger, which is also 4-wire, 3-phase, 240V, but not a Wye. It has a center tap on one side of a delta, that is grounded to give 120/120 from A to N to C, and 208 from B to N. It's also referred to as a high-leg delta and these are common on rural pole mounts.
1. If it is a WYE, then all you need is an auto-transformer, 277Y/480V, 3Ph to 138Y/240V, 3Ph.
2. If it's a Stinger (or a WYE) then you need an isolation transformer, 277Y/480V, 3Ph to 240V Delta 3Ph.
In both cases, the following inverter connects to the 480V side.
The inverter of choice for me is a CPS 25kW, 480VAC, VDC. They are inexpensive and very reliable, and their support in the valley is excellent. I would not recommend going 1-phase or SolarEdge. IMO and experience, they fail often.
The CPS doesn't require optimizers, and it has multiple MPPT inputs so you can expand the capacity up to 25kW+ on the DC side.
Also, PG&E will probably make you upgrade the meter cabinet and add a 3Ph disconnect switch, per Rule 21. All equipment, including the transformer, need to be outdoor rated, NEMA 3R.
Good luck.
Came across the following blog. It includes the company's installed system numbers and failure rates for SolarEdge, Fronius, Enphase. Also, information on limitations and best use of optimizers. https://www.mcelectrical.com.au/solaredge-inverter-optimiser-review/
SMA and Fronius would be tier-one manufacturers with a good reputation, for GT PV inverters.
There are Chinese brand inverters offering PV, battery backup, 3-phase. If you can find one that is UL listed (including latest -SA requirements), the functionality/price might make it worth trying.
Several brands of battery or hybrid inverters should be configurable for 3-phase. Schneider, Sol-Ark, Outback (don't know if they have UL--SA). See if Midnight Rosie is available yet. SMA Sunny Island + Sunny Boy would work for 120/208Y, but don't know if SI not being -SA will cause any permitting issues.
1. If it is a WYE, then all you need is an auto-transformer, 277Y/480V, 3Ph to 138Y/240V, 3Ph.
2. If it's a Stinger (or a WYE) then you need an isolation transformer, 277Y/480V, 3Ph to 240V Delta 3Ph.
In both cases, the following inverter connects to the 480V side.
The inverter of choice for me is a CPS 25kW, 480VAC, VDC. They are inexpensive and very reliable, and their support in the valley is excellent.
Got links to particular transformers you find work? If his case is 240V (more or less) grid and he needs 277/480Y to excite the inverter, that is step-up for the grid tie application. But you mention an isolation transformer 277/480 to 240 delta, which would be step-down.
From my experience, only some transformers are reversible. I think heavier may work, but lighter weight and designed to the hairy edge, they do not:
Showing a work-in-progress assembling 3-phase SMA system. 3x SI--US are configured for 3-phase and produce 120/208Y, rated 15 kW continuous. Sunny TriPower TL-US-10 is 480V delta (or 277/480Y), rated 30 kW. TriPower combiner box will be used, but for now just one string being connected...
I would not recommend going 1-phase or SolarEdge. IMO and experience, they fail often.
Solar Edge, I'm seeing and hearing similar.
1-phase - do you think your 3-phase solution is more reliable than Sunny Boy?
I think they are very good, although I like the idea of 3-phase GT PV because approximately zero ripple current from caps.
At least with 3x single-phase inverters, if one fails you still have 2/3 output while getting it repaired.
My experience operating SWR for 17 years shows 34 year MTBF.
OK, if 120/208Y then 1, 2, or 3 single-phase Sunny Boy could be used:
These (or other UL--SA) inverters could work with Sunny Island if battery backup was desired in the future.
A 15 HP pump might or might not be too large for that to start.
Anybody know of a good 3-phase GT PV inverter for that voltage?
A UL listed hybrid (preferably batteries optional)?
But he said PG&E told him it was 240V, which would still work with single-phase inverters.
The older Sunny Boy auto-distinguish 208 from 240V when a neutral is connected. Would have to manually configure for 240V and leave neutral disconnected if 240V delta (or equivalent Y). Need to confirm these newer -41 models also allow that. Newer code has called for neutral connection, which would tip off the inverter this supply is something different.
Zooming in, I see the component supports a range of voltages
You really need the actual voltage.
NC Solar recommends 3-phase (which I like), but I recommend an inverter that can be used without a transformer.
You won't find a 3-phase 240V inverter. They come in 208V or 480V. The 480V is cheaper and more common.
Also, the SMA Sunnyboy is okay, but you will pay 2x the cost for it compared to the CPS I recommended. It would cost way more than that if you choose to do it with three 1-phase inverters to use 240V. The CPS I suggested has the best reputation and lowest cost. The company "Solectria/Yaskawa", private label the CPS inverters, and I've had my crews install hundreds of them across CA. They have very good support in the Valley.
With a neutral coming from the meter, it appears to be a wye system. And the contactor has a 220v coil. So I would guess it is a 208/120v system.
But, it's still just a guess.
Very unlikely for it to be 208V and PG&E to call it 240V. Also, having a Neutral doesn't mean it's a WYE. It could be a High-leg Delta "Stinger", like this. These are usually what are referred to as 240V, 4-wire, 3-phase in the Valley. You can't connect ANY 3-phase inverters directly to this, they will have ground-fault issues immediately. It requires an isolation transformer, every time.
Very unlikely for it to be 208V and PG&E to call it 240V.
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If it is this configuration, with 120/240V split-phase L1/N/L2, then you can ignore L3 and just do a split-phase configuration like almost all home systems. Many to choose from. Your motor will draw balanced power and utility drop will carry imbalanced power, but not your problem. You may even deliver net power on L1 and L2 while drawing the same power on L3.
I do prefer 3-phase, and it can be cheaper per watt, but if a transformer is required that adds cost. Step-down from 3-phase 480V to 208V is readily available, probably also to 240V. But step-up is harder to find, may have to buy new for a couple $thousand. I think consumer commodity split-phase inverters are the way to go, when you're just connected to the grid and not battery backup.
I would suggest a pair of these, 15kW for $, but you need to find them in stock somewhere:
Shop now for SMA SB7.7-1 SP-US-41 Sunny Boy 7.7kW Solar Inverter Standard with integrated DC disco, 3-MPPT, AFCI 208/240 VAC with SPS Function.
I’m going to install a small solar system relatively quickly to get grandfathered into NEM 2.0, before new systems lose their ability to earn back anywhere near their cost. Then later on deal with adding capacity.
Probably, only the watts you have at time you get utility permission to operate will be grandfathered under NEM 2.0, and additions would have to be under NEM 3.0
If you can get the panels and connect them somehow, maybe a flat "deck" on the ground with fence around? complete in time for NEM 2.0
Arrays of two orientations should flatten production during the day, rather than peaking at noon (export to grid) and drawing other hours. If you add capacity parallel to the motor itself, behind any float/pressure/irrigate switch, it will only produce while motor draws power, preventing excess export. So that way you might get away with added capacity without needing new permission. But would waste any production when motor not running.
An active "export limit" system would let added capacity fill in allowed export for more hours of the day.
Yup, a Stinger, just as I suspected.
I have a solution for you, easy peasy, no transformer. Using microinverters. Bingo! I'll PM you.
Diagram says, "brown - Line. blue - Neutral"
How does that work with stinger?
If those were isolated 240V inverters, could go line to line.
If 120V, I assume you only put on the two 120V lines, not the stinger.
Probably 240V string inverters could also work line to line, but only on the two sides with stinger if their EMI and transient protection components can take it. Some can take 277V, so 208V to neutral would be fine (just different max wattage.)
For home installations, microinverter takes care of RSD and arc-fault requirements, which add cost to string inverter systems now that they're required.
OP's is agricultural, so with a ground-mount array those safety features aren't required. Offers more economical solutions.